Hi Fellow Jaguar Lovers! Having moved cars around so I could start the project of replacing the clutch on Jennifer's car yesterday, today I was able to get started. I thought I share a pictorial of how to remove the bonnet safely as a one man operation.
I've learned that the easiest way to remove the bonnet is to prop it up against the wall, sounds pretty easy and in some ways it is but there is always just a touch of anxiety and fear that you'll damage someone else's bonnet heaven forbid!
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| The ramps are about 3 3/4" high and long enough that I can roll the car up to the wall. |
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| The car is about 44" from the wall, I've put some pads under the front to protect the bumper guards that the bonnet will rest on. |
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| The bonnet spring mechanism and the license plate bracket have been released from frame and the bonnet plug removed from the bonnet |
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| Protective pads and straps in place, preparing to bring the bonnet up against the wall. |
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| Removing the bolts and the bronze bushing, note that the car raises up just a bit when the weight is taken off the car, when reinstalling the bonnet I'll deflate the tires just a bit to get them to line up. |
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| Separated from the bonnet |
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| Bonnet supported against the wall |
The first step in removing the engine requires removal of the exhaust system, on a 50 yr. old car it's always a challenge as everything is corroded together.
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| An area of concern, both sides of the block have had staining from leaking coolant-not good! |
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| Removing the old exhausted exhaust system |
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| Another view of the coolant staining after removal of the exhaust headers |
We're going to have to make some hard decisions pretty soon, I was thinking that we wouldn't have to open the engine but the coolant leaking from both sides of the block suggest that the head gasket is leaking. If that proves to be the case then at a minimum we'll have to pull the head and replace the gasket, if we do that we may want to have the head rebuilt so we are likely to be seeing some significant 'mission' creep both in time and money.
That's it for today,
Cheers,
Lynn
6.5 hrs
Nice work! Looks like good padding and excellent documentation as well. Definitely an anxiety provoking job.
ReplyDeleteHave you checked the head bolt torque? My car had a bit of similar leakage after her engine rebuild and I kept checking the torque and also added some Bar's Leaks. The leaks have disappeared on the LH side, but I still have some small leakage on the RH side of the head. It's pretty hard to see under the carbs and under the intake, but there's some gunk buildup there. However, the radiator always appears to be full. Maybe from the intake? I'll have to show you next time.
Hi Drew, Thanks! It has evidence of coolant on both sides of the block, on the exhaust side the small casting plug under the exhaust looks corroded so may be the source on this side. If after I remove the intake manifold I find another 'freeze' plug as possible culprit then I might be able to make a case to leave it alone. I haven't checked the torque on the head bolts, might just check that tomorrow, thanks for the thought.
DeleteCheers,
Lynn