1) Intake manifold and carbs-what a PITA to get at the nuts on the under side.
2) Water pump and pulley- can't get to the water pump bolts without removing the pulley
3) Alternator
4) Oil filter, and mounting housing
5) distributor and ignition harness (engine set on TDC)
6) coolant hoses attached to related parts
I spent a fair amount of time trying to loosen the upper starter mounting bolt, very frustrating and looks like I'll have to try to get at it from the transmission tunnel-yuck!
Tomorrow I'll be pulling out the interior which will allow me to get the transmission tunnel off and access to the drive shaft bolts.
Parts and pieces pulled off today, wish it looked more impressive! |
Well, that's it for today.
Cheers,
Lynn
6.5 hrs
Yes, those nuts on the underside of the intake are a royal pain. I found a stubby wrench that worked well and also a long 1/2 inch wrench with a longish bend that worked on some of the nuts. Still, lying on your back under the jacked up car and reaching up is difficult. I am probably more physically limited now than the last time I did this. :-) Also, measure the distance from the front of the engine to the picture frame so you can put it back in the same spot. Jerry and I got my engine in just fine, but when CJ did an engine out to replace the rear main seal they go it in a slightly different place that caused a problem with the shifter being too far back in the cockpit. It would pop out of gear when in second due to pressure on the shift rod from the back of the cover on the rubber boot. Jerry and I had se this correctly and I couldn't fix the problem due to the bonnet being back on.
ReplyDeleteHi Drew, I hope you know how much I appreciate yours and Erica's advice as I proceed. Thanks for the tip on the engine spacing, I've had that problem in the past so I have measured it too.
DeleteI understand the limitations you've alluded to, I have gotten to the point that I'm looking for the longest wrenches that will give me more leverage.
Again thanks for your thoughts!
Cheers,
Lynn