Carrier hub issues

I was disappointed to find evidence of previous abuse and sadly damage to the hub carrier.  It looks like someone has worked on this part before me, I can't imagine that the factory would have done this, but I suppose it could have been the last job on a friday just before quitting time? At any rate it looks like someone used a BFH to get the hub carrier to fit inside the lower control arm and dented/cracked the edge of the ring on the hub carrier. 

The marks on the 'web' are from a Big F___ing Hammer, the cracks can be seen at the 6, 6:30 and 7 O'clock positions of the rim

From the inside 

I initially thought that this was relatively minor but decided to post it on Jag Lovers and see what the collective wisdom of the group was.  It was pretty much unanimous that the hub carrier should be replaced: https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/damaged-hub-carrier-68-ots/374122

So one of my friends in Austin-Erica found one on ebay and after they told me that I could return it if it didn't meet my expectations I went ahead and ordered it.  Should be here by next Friday

Cheers,

Lynn

IRS, disassembly and cleaning of the parts

Won't be much for prose today but I'll try to provide some detail with each picture.

These are the passenger side upper control arm/half shaft.  

Separating the parts from the hub and hub carrier, the wood block has been used successfully to press the hub out on several cars. 

The cleaned parts that compose the control arms for the passenger side suspension.  The parts are in good condition and I am thinking that the original finish is quite good, so probably won't repaint. As some folks say "it's only original once".

The cleaned hub carrier and hub

Removing the outer bearing tends to be problematic, I don't want to damage either the hub spacer or water slinger  so the bearing has to be destroyed to pull it off.  This picture show the hub being held in a spare wheel with the bearing splitter attached.  The roller bearings have to be removed so that the bearing separator could be fastened to the bearings inner race.

Bearing separator attached to the bearings inner race, it has a lip that will hold the device.  The bearing searator would not  fit in under the bearing with the water slinger in place.  I have tried to remove the slinger in the past to do this but I wasn't able to get it back on and secure.

The hub sans bearing

Hate to destroy the bearing but I planned on replacing it with a new bearing and it allowed me to protect the water slinger and more importantly the spacer that doubles as the sealing surface against the seal.

Well, that's it for now....

Cheers,

Lynn

Parking Brakes ( I knew I posted this but I posted it on RJ's Blog-doh!)

Friday, March 22, 2019

Parking Brakes

Today I was able to spend a bit of time on JJ and cleaned, rebuilt and lubed the parking brake mechanism along with replacing the brake pads .

Lock wired and torqued with loctite to 60 ft/lbs.

An amazingly complicated mechanism for the parking brake, this one is for the drivers side.

What is what it looked like before it was cleaned

After installation of the parking brake mechanisms 

Beginning to clean/scrape some of the old grease and muck that has acquired over the past 50 years. Just starting and I'll bet I scraped at least two pounds of crud off the two lower control arms, after scraping I'll need to wash the rest off.

That's it for this week.
Cheers,
Lynn

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Replacing the output shaft seals and bearings

 Not a lot of meat in this post but I have been able to get a little bit of garage time in over the past week or two.

New bearings for the output shaft on the differential, I was replacing the seals only to discover that the outermost bearing on either side were bad, low oil perhaps at some point in the past?

Setting the end play on the output shaft, the play is set by the thickness of the shims between the bearings.  The only way that I could set the right amount of end play/free play was to assemble the unit without the seal check and repeat till I had the necessary 1-3/1000th" play. this way I could get the bearing puller on the inside race of the bearing to keep from damaging the bearing when removing it to adjust the shims.

The differential had been leaking from the cover so a new seal was installed after cleaning up the cover and repainting it.

That's it for today, the calipers are installed and safety wired, along with Loctite.

Cheers,

Lynn

Rear suspension, differential

Haven't been doing enough to post on Jennifer's Jag but here's some pictures to bring you up to date.

A couple of things have come up that I didn't anticipate, in life as well as on the car,  I was going to replace the seals on the leaky differential and as I disassembled it I noticed that the output shaft bearings (in particular, the outer most of the two bearings) were blued and on close examination scored with scoring on the bearing race possibly from the differential oil getting to low?  At any rate these have to be replaced and replacements are on order.   

Lifting the IRS cage up, can't recall why but it made sense at the time

Pumpkin (differential) separated from the IRS carrier

Pumpkin with brake calipers attached, pretty grimy!

Separating the pieces

Making a tool to get the nut off the output flange, better than trying to use a punch to loosen the nut.

Surprisingly it worked, I will never make it as a tool fabricator 

That's it for now, don't know when I'll post again but hope to get this car back on it's wheels in time for some late springtime fun for Jennifer.  Thank you for your patience Jennifer.

Cheers,

Lynn